July 27, 2026
Tsankawi

Tsankawi

And here was our afternoon…
LadderTsankawi

We talked about Africa, primarily Eastern Africa, and the region surrounding Kenya, where a friend Lily made last fall spends a fair portion of her time.


 
 
We also read:

We’re exploring these topics, specifically on a global perspective. She’s learned that 100 cents = 1 dollar, and we’re beginning our exploration on currencies that extend beyond the USD, the Canadian Dollar, and the Mexican Dollar.
The idea here is to transition into a point where not only is money being integrated in her concepts and discoveries related to percentages and fractions, but also to encourage her to dive head first into a realm of understanding of finances, financial management, and general $ IQ.
 


 
When Russ finally awoke, after an all night festival at Nambe and Alcade, NM, we got some food and then hit the rocks. We’d discussed Bandelier, but read a review and saw some imagery that suggested we might enjoy Tsankawi a bit better. It’s definitely less coordination and formality, and we had a blast. I think we’ll return tomorrow for more exploration and climbing.

Tsankawi

tsankawi trail

At Tsankawi you can hike the same trails used by the Ancestral Pueblo people.

NPS Photo by Sally King

The Tsankawi section of Bandelier National Monument is located on State Highway 4 twelve miles from the main section of the park. At Tsankawi you take a 1.5 mile walk along a mesa, viewing cavates, petroglyphs and the Ancestral Pueblo village of Tsankawi. Ladders are a required part of this trail. The trail is very exposed to the elements and should not be taken during localized thunderstorms. Cold, snowy weather can make the trail slippery so extra care should be taken when visiting in winter.
Printable Los Alamos/White Rock Map with Tsankawi location indicated. (3.2 mb PDF)

view from Tsankawi
horned lizard

Tsankawi’s pinyon-juniper woodlands are home to short-horned lizards.  If encountered, feel free to watch/photograph them but please do not handle, touch, or collect these adorable reptiles.  This is their home.

photo by sally king

Did You Know?

Pinon cone with nutsPinon nuts are rich in vitamins, flavor, and calories (3,000 per pound). Although produced in abundance only every 7 to 10 years, these nuts were a valuable native food source for the Ancestral Pueblo people.
More…

 
 

Ancestral Pueblo Native Plant Use

yucca leaf with fibers

Yucca leaves are very fibrous and provide the material to make rope, baskets, and sandals.

NPS Photo by Sally King

Although Ancestral Pueblo people were not totally reliant upon gathering like their predecessors, the Paleo-Indians, they still depended upon native plants to supplement their diet and numerous other uses.
Yucca
Yucca was a very important plant for the Ancestral Pueblo people because of its diverse uses. The roots of the plant were peeled and ground to produce a sudsy pulp. The pulp was mixed with water and used for soap or shampoo. Legend says that washing your hair with yucca shampoo makes the hair strands stronger and may even prevent baldness. (Remember, native plants can not be collected in the park.)

yucca flowers

Yucca flowers are sweet and edible.

NPS Photo by Sally King

Yucca leaves are stiff and full of fibers. The yucca leaves were collected and stripped of fibers. The fibers were then woven into sandals, baskets, or rope. Twine made from yucca fiber was twisted with wet turkey feathers or strips of rabbit fur to made nice warm blankets. Imagine curling up on a cold winter’s night under a nice warm thick turkey feather blanket you had just made. The people could chew one end of a short length of yucca leaf, exposing the fibers and producing paintbrushes for decorating pottery. If you’ve ever accidentally backed into a yucca plant you know a sharp, hard point tips each leaf. These sharp leaf ends could be used as needles for sewing when combined with the fibrous threads from the leaves.
The soft, fleshy fruit of the yucca was a staple of Ancestral Pueblo diet. It could be eaten raw, cooked, or mixed with other ingredients. In early summer the yucca blooms with shiny white flowers. These flowers are sweet and can be eaten raw. If you’re very hungry, you can even eat the root. Unfortunately, it’s like washing your mouth with soap since it tastes like detergent.

cholla flower

During Ancestral Pueblo times the blooms of the cholla cactus were eaten and provided calcium in their diet.

NPS Photo by Sally King

Walking Stick or Cane Cholla
People often mistake the yellowish-green fruit of this plant with the plant’s flower bud. However, if you ever saw the cactus in bloom with its bright pink flowers the difference would be obvious. Historically cholla was considered a famine food, eaten only when food was especially scarce. However, during prehistoric times it is likely cholla was a food staple. The fruit could be eaten raw or dried for use during the winter. The stalks could be eaten once the thorns were removed. Cholla buds are rich in calcium. Amazingly, a two tablespoon serving contains only a few calories but as much calcium as a glass of milk. Milk was not available to Ancestral Pueblo people beyond infancy.

prickly pear flower

Prickly pears are a good source of food but all parts, except the blossoms, are covered with fine thorns.

NPS Photo by Sally King

Prickly Pear Cactus
The fruit of prickly pear cactus, known as a tuna, would have been one of the few naturally sweet foods available to Ancestral Pueblo people. Collecting the fruit and preparing it for consumption must be done with due caution. All surface parts of the plant are heavily covered with needle-fine thorns. Thick gloves, probably of rawhide, must have been worn during the collection process. The fruit can be eaten raw or cooked. Jelly or candy made from the cooked fruit is still sold locally today.
The young pads of the prickly pear cactus are also edible. Cut into strips, the pads are boiled. The pads contain a thick, mucilaginous fluid to help maintain moisture. The resulting food, called nopalitas, can have this same unappealing consistency.

prickly pear tunas

Prickly pear cactus fruits are called tunas. They are sweet and edible.

NPS Photo by Sally King

Did You Know?

Valles CalderaThe Valles Caldera is the collapsed summit of the Jemez Volcano which erupted over 1 million years ago. Ash from this volcano formed the volcanic tuff from which the Ancestral Pueblo people built their homes.

Did You Know?

Aspen fall colorAll the aspens in a cluster will change colors at approximately the same time. That’s because in a grouping of aspens, most are clones that grew as root sprouts from the original plant.
 

History & Culture

Long House

Rows of viga holes show that Long House was once a two to three story structure.

NPS Photo by Sally King

Bandelier’s human history extends back for over 10,000 years when nomadic hunter-gatherers followed migrating wildlife across the mesas and canyons. By 1150 CE Ancestral Pueblo people began to build more permanent settlements. Reminders of these past times are still evident in the park as are the strong ties of the modern Pueblo people. By 1550 the Ancestral Pueblo people had moved from their homes here to pueblos along the Rio Grande (Cochiti, San Felipe, San Ildefonso, Santa Clara, Santo Domingo).
In the mid-1700’s Spanish settlers with Spanish land grants made their homes in Frijoles Canyon. In 1880 Jose Montoya of Cochiti Pueblo brought Adolph F. A. Bandelier to Frijoles Canyon. Montoya offered to show Bandelier his people’s ancestral homelands.

ccc workers

CCC workers take a break while building the new lodge at Bandelier.

NPS Photo

In 1916 legislation to create Bandelier National Monument was signed by President Woodrow Wilson. In 1925 Evelyn Frey and her husband, George, arrived to take over the Ranch of the 10 Elders that had been built by Judge Abbott in 1907. Between 1934 and 1941 workers from the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) worked from a camp constructed in Frijoles Canyon. Among their accomplishments is the road into Frijoles Canyon, the current visitor center, a new lodge, and miles of trails. For several years during World War II the park was closed to the public and the Bandelier lodge was used to house Manhattan Project scientists and military personnel.
See the Bandelier Museum collection.

Did You Know?

Western Diamondback RattlesnakeMost rattlesnakes bites are “dry” bites in which little or no venom is produced. That doesn’t mean you want to get bit. Keep your distance if you encounter a rattlesnake while hiking.
 
 
 


 
 

People

long house

People have lived in this area for over 10,000 years.  Ancestral Pueblo people built homes in the park’s canyons and on the mesas.

NPS Photo by Sally King

Click the links to the left to find out more about the people who lived in Bandelier.

  • People
    • Paleoindians

      Paleoindian hunters were the first humans to use the Pajarito Plateau, arriving here more than 11,000 years ago.
      clovis point

      This Clovis point (left side of image) is approximately 12,000 years old. It is one of the oldest artifacts found in Bandelier. The point, mounted on a spear, was used for hunting large animals and was propelled by an atlatl.

      NPS Museum Collection

      Hunting
      Groups of Paleoindians followed the movement of large, now-extinct species of ancient bison and mammoths. For the hunt, they crafted stone spear points and cutting tools, such as the Clovis point seen here. To improve their hunting success, they propelled their sharp spears with an altatl. This tool improved the power and distance a spear could be thrown. Warming temperatures and the extinction of many species of large animals brought an end to the Paleoindian lifestyle.

    • Archaic Hunter-Gatherers
    • Archaic Hunter-Gatherers

      rabbit

      Smaller game such as rabbits and deer became the hunted when larger game such as bison and mammoths became extinct.

      photo by sally king

      During the Archaic Period (6000 BCE – 1150 CE), nomadic groups of people continued to adapt to a changing climate by eating a more diverse diet of smaller game and many varieties of edible plants, fruits, and nuts.

      wolfberry

      Fruits and nuts were also an important food source for the Archaic people.

      photo by sally king

      Gathering
      Archaic peoples moved less than their Paleoindian predecessors, but still followed the seasonal availability of important food sources. Here at Bandelier, rabbits, deer, piñon nuts, and wild grass seeds played a major role in Archaic people’s survival. The use of pottery would not have been practical for these nomadic people. Hand-woven yucca and willow baskets were probably used for gathering and storing plants, nuts and other wild foods. Around 1150, the Ancestral Pueblo people began to move into this area from other locations.

      Did You Know?

      Dog Petroglyph from Long HouseThe Ancestral Pueblo people carved petroglyphs into the soft tuff rock above many of the dwellings built along the cliffs.

    • Ancestral Pueblo People

Ancestral Pueblo People

tyuonyi

The Ancestral Pueblo people lived in homes built of carved blocks of volcanic tuff.

NPS Photo by Sally King

Life in Bandelier
The Ancestral Pueblo people lived here from approximately 1150 CE to 1550 CE. They built homes carved from the volcanic tuff and planted crops in mesatop fields. Corn, beans, and squash were central to their diet, supplemented by native plants and meat from deer, rabbit, and squirrel. Domesticated turkeys were used for both their feathers and meat while dogs assisted in hunting and provided companionship.
Moving On
By 1550, the Ancestral Pueblo people had moved from this area to pueblos along the Rio Grande. After over 400 years the land here could no longer support the people and a severe drought added to what were already becoming difficult times. Oral traditions tell us where the people went and who their descendents are. The people of Cochiti Pueblo, located just south and east along the Rio Grande, are the most direct descendents of the Ancestral Pueblo people who built homes in Frijoles Canyon. Likewise, San Ildefonso is most closely linked to Tsankawi.

Ancestral Pueblo People – Vital Statistics

grinding corn

Hours spent kneeling and grinding corn took their toll on Ancestral Pueblo knees and arms.

NPS Photo by Sally King

Size
The average Ancestral Pueblo man was 5’5″ tall while the average woman was 5′. The average size for people in Europe was approximately the same.
Lifespan
The average lifespan was 35 years; however, infant mortality rates were high. A large percentage of children never made it past 2 years of age. There would have been individuals who survived into their 50’s and 60’s but they would not be among the majority.
Health
Bad teeth and arthritis were common ailments. It was not uncommon for women to die in childbirth. Evidence suggests that injured persons were nursed and supported by the community.
 

Ancestral Pueblo Home Construction

walls of tyuonyi

The walls of structures were built with blocks of volcanic tuff.

NPS Photo by Sally King

Tuff Blocks
Homes were constructed from blocks of volcanic tuff, which is soft and relatively easy to break into blocks. In fact, natural erosional processes often create slopes of talus or broken, often block-like pieces of rock, at the bottom of canyon walls. The Ancestral Pueblo people has sources of hard rock, basalt, just a short distance down canyon. From this more durable rock the people made axes and hammers which could be used as tools to form the tuff blocks. Axes were also used to fell large Ponderosa pine trees whose straight, thick trunks made excellent vigas (the beams used to support the roof).

block wall with mortar

Blocks of tuff were held together with a mud mortar.

NPS Photo by Sally King

Mortar
Blocks of tuff were held together with a mud mixture. This mortar is often missing when a site is excavated. In the past, the mortar was often replaced with concrete, a much harder material than the tuff. This led to problems and currently an effort is underway to replace the old concrete with a new mortar that has properties more similar to the original.

viga holes and plaster

Rows of viga holes show how many stories tall a dwelling was.

NPS Photo by Sally King

How Many Stories
Dwellings built along the base of the canyon wall were often more stories than similar ones built on the canyon floor. These dwellings used the support of the canyon wall. One can determine exactly how many stories tall they were by looking at the rows of viga holes.
Cavates
Cavates, carved rooms, were also common behind the rooms built at the bottom of cliffs. Luckily, the tuff is soft and malleable. Carving these rooms using stone tools would have still been very difficult. The walls of the cavates were often plastered and the ceilings smoked. Smoking the ceiling made it less crumbly. Sometimes pictographs painted on or petroglyphs were carved into the walls.

blackened ceiling

The walls of cavates were often plastered and the ceilings blackened.

NPS Photo by Sally King

Did You Know?

KatydidKatydids are often called leaf hoppers. Their wings and body look like vegetation, a form of camouflage which offers this insect some protection from predators.

  • Pueblo People
  • Pueblo People

    Zuni singers at Bandelier

    Many traditional activities are still a fundamental part of the lives of Pueblo people.

    photo by sally king

    Continuing the Traditions
    Along the Rio Grande, Pueblo people continue to live and adapt with oral traditions and beliefs connecting them with their ancestors.

    This Place Knows Us
    “We have learned from our ancestors how to honor the land. As Pueblo people we carry on what our ancestors have taught us. Their songs, stories, and spirits are part of this landscape, and we are the continuation of the story.”
    – Affiliated Pueblo Committee

  • Mrs. Frey

Mrs Frey and the Bandelier Lodge

Mrs Frey and son, Richard

Mrs. Frey, with her husband and son, arrived in 1925 to oversee the Ranch of the 10 Elders.

NPS Photo

The Early Lodge
A man named Judge Judson Abbott build the first lodge in Frijoles Canyon in 1907. From Santa Fe, he moved here and became a caretaker for the Frijoles Canyon archeological sites. The lodge, called the Ranch of the 10 Elders, was located across Frijoles Creek from Tyuonyi.
The Freys Arrive
In 1925 George and Evelyn Frey, with their infant son, took over the running of the Ranch of the 10 Elders. At that time, the only way into and out of Frijoles Canyon was a steep, dirt path. All of the Frey belongings had to be tied onto mules for the arduous journey down from the canyon rim. The family possessions included household goods, 75 fruit trees, and several hundred chickens.

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